Paris is absolutely my favorite of the Fashion Weeks. There is just something about the city that makes the clothes more magical, more beautiful, more aspirational even. Below I have edited down some of my favorite collections of the Fall 2011 season. The rest will be posted shortly. For now please enjoy A-C.
Sarah Burton’s second collection for Alexander McQueen boasted some stunning gowns, fit for a Queen (hint Ms. Middleton). The fairly small collection was almost exclusively black and white, very Victorian and full of luxurious fur and structure.
Head designer of Balmain, Christophe Decarnin, has regretfully checked himself into a hospital due to depression, and did not work a lot on the line this season, but despite that the old world house pulled through and created a luxe tomboy ish line. I appreciated the departure from the safety pins and ripped tees, the sequin dresses and metallic fabrics are so fabulous.
Cacharel’s show was interesting, half was the beautiful flower design and the other half was the very simple neutral colored separates, both were equally wearable and modern.
Admittedly the Celine show this season was not as great as it was in the past, but the four looks above I found to be the exception. Fur is clearly not going anywhere (yay!) and for some reason I cannot get that pink suit out of my head.
Hannah MacGibbon didn’t get the best review of this season’s Chloe collection, there was too much snakeskin and not enough of her beautiful 70’s camel pieces that made the line so popular again. However, I really loved the leather pants and these new colors she is introducing for Fall.
Seeing that I am not a “tomboy” in the least (though you should have seen me in the 90’s) I wasn’t a huge fan of Chanel and all of the skirts over pants and boyish clothing. It was mainly black and dark colors, and I feel like only models can pull off the skirt/dress over pants look. But I did love some of the chiffon dresses and black jumpsuits, it is Chanel after all.
Couture season has just ended in Paris (sigh) and the clothes were absolutely lovely. I noticed a distinct return to femininity, from the shapes to the pale colors and light fabrics. It’s quite sad because I know from experience that the photographs really do not do the clothes justice. What might look merely “beautiful” in an image is amplified by 10 when you actually see the piece in person and feel the fabric and see the intricate details the camera barely picks up. I am lucky enough to have this experience at Vogue and I absolutely cannot wait to see these exquisite pieces in person.
The Whole Collection
I felt the second day called for an all black ensemble, I am at a fashion magazine after all.
I chose this black Saks Fifth Ave. jumpsuit and pinned one of my great-grandmothers rhinestone pins on the lapel, and topped it off with black suede Chanel loafers.
Daphne Guinness and FIT have a healthy loving relationship, and this couldn’t make me happier. I went to the Japan Now exhibit currently at FIT, curated by the fabulous Valerie Steele, and was pleasantly surprised. The exhibit was impressive to say the least. Japanese fashion is not my favorite but I loved seeing the minimalistic avant garde design sense of Yojhi Yamamoto and Issey Miyake next to that of Japanese Lolitas and CosPlay characters. I thought the mix of these two vastly different styles was great.
But what I liked the most was this sign.
See that sentence at the bottom? Yes, the last one that says, “Gift of Daphne Guinness”. There were two of these but the guard stopped me before I could take a picture of the second one.
Daphne Guinness donates to FIT, to my school, to my institute of higher learning.
She is one of my fashion icons. Period.
And it gets even better than this. The Fall 2011 exhibit at FIT is going to be Daphne Guinness’s couture collection. I died a little when I heard this (in a good way).
I think it is so unbelievably generous of her to show her world renowned closet to the world. One that she has been building for decades. One filled with Alexander McQueen originals and Chanel and Vivienne Westwood…
Just one more reason to look forward to next Fall.
Because I am quite far behind on my fashion shows I have decided to condense the last few days into one final post. That means that these are the absolute stand out pieces from the final days of PFW.
There should also be a moment of silence for both Jean Paul Gaultier’s last Hermes collection and Sarah Burton’s first collection for Alexander McQueen. Let the changing of the guards commence.
Paul and Joe
Every summer I take a trip into New York to see the Costume Institute’s most recent exhibition at the Metropolitian Museum of Art. And last Wednesday I had a chance to see the newest one, sponsored by Conde Nast and Gap, the title is “American Woman: Fashioning A National Identity.”
Personally, I think all of the exhibits they put on are beyond incredible. The first one I went to was all Chanel, and I happened to bump into Tim Gunn so that was exciting. This one was beautiful. I loved seeing the changes in American styles and how they developed in the beginning part of the 20th Century. The clothes were always stunning but in different ways, and completely different from each other from decade to decade.
My favorites were the Bohemians and the Flappers, followed closely by the glamorous movie stars of the 30’s. There was one dress that I was instantly drawn to in the Flapper room, and of course, it was Lanvin.
If you can get to the city to see it I really recommend it, if not for the clothes, to see the psychology behind how clothing was impacted by society and vice versa.
The Athletic Gibson Girl.
Close Up of Bohemians
Old Hollywood Glamour of the 30's
Close Up of Hollywood