I’ve been putting off a Dior post for a few weeks now. I of course have an opinion about what happened but I don’t really know how to express how I feel about the Galliano incident. John Galliano is a brilliant designer. He understands fashion, women’s bodies, fabric manipulation, and drama. However, I am Jewish, and what he said is obviously appalling and hurtful and I hate that his tenure at Dior and reputation in the fashion industry had to end like this. Honestly, I am just sad. That simple word really expresses perfectly how I feel. I am sad that his time at Dior is up, that he will not design stunning clothes (for a while at least), and most of all I am sad about his feelings towards Jews. That said his last collection for Dior was, of course, gorgeous.
This Hermes collection is Christophe Lemaire’s first for the house. It was a bit shaky at the end, but the leather pieces (what Hermes is known for) were luscious and perfect for fall. I am excited to see what he does for his upcoming collections.
This presentation (the actual fashion show was canceled) was John Galliano’s smallest to date. The above dresses are my favorite from the line. His separates really aren’t my style but his dresses always are!
As you can tell from the five photos above I have both a leather and Loewe obsession. Those two semi-bomber jackets with fur collars are screaming my name and I have never wanted a leather shift dress more.
This is kind of like the Tipping Point in Paris Fashion Week. The days following Day 5 are the heavy hitters fashion wise. Today is John Galliano, Celine, and Givenchy, and the next three days are when the biggest and oldest fashion houses show their collections.
As almost everyone knows, Celine is up there with Lanvin to me. Fashion doesn’t get any cleaner or minimalist chic than Celine. Phoebe Philo is a descendent of the fashion gods in my eyes, and her last collection was so inspiring and beautiful, that if it wasn’t so pathetic I would have cried and every night until I owned the complete collection. This season was still lovely, perfectly summery and Parisian in my eyes, but I don’t know if anything can top that last collection.
John Galliano, like Jean Paul Gaultier, creates amazingly fun fashion shows, with unrealistic clothing that could hardy ever be worn in public. But his last few evening gowns were to die for. Their sheerness was on the verge of unwearable but he walks the line so well no one cares and I would wear them every day if I could.
The Givenchy couture collection shown this summer was the best Givenchy collection I have seen. To me, this one fell short of the extravagance and beauty of the last show but there were still some pieces which would look amazing in my closet.
Now we are up to October 1, PFW Day 3. Yes this was the day that the ever talented Alber Elbaz sent his Lanvin collection down the runway. It should really be a national holiday, a day dedicated to the most beautiful clothes. Lanvin Lover’s day? It has a nice ring to it.
I love clothes which means that I love a lot of designers. However, I find that there are two or three that I know I will love every collection they put out. And Alber Elbaz is at the top of that list. His collection on Friday was absolutely gorgeous, dare I say, better than last seasons? The colors from poppy to the pale mint green were almost as stunning as the draping and movement of the clothes. If there is one thing Elbaz does best it is making women look incredible in his designs through the use of drapery.
The Christian Dior collection on the other hand was not nearly as good as last seasons. John Galliano is one of the best, however, I do not always admire his design aesthetic and taste level. His couture show in the summer inspired by flowers included some of the prettiest dresses I have ever seen, and the collection in the spring with the Victorian twist was gorgeous. But I really did not like his collection this fall except for the finale evening gowns, which in my opinion are his strong suit.
Isabel Marant is the cool girl. There is no way around it. Her clothes are always put together in a way that you wouldn’t think makes sense but somehow it does. Her sweaters this collection look so cozy I just want to run down to SoHo and buy all of them.
Vivienne Westwood knows how to make people talk. Her clothing is never shy or polite, and this season is no different. I can’t wait to see some model or celebrity try to pull of the heart blouses, and the first who does should really receive a round of applause.
They are absolutely everywhere. All over the internet, featured on the Vogue UK blog and Refinery 29. On the manicured hands of Tim Gunn and potentially pinned to the jackets of everyone at Fashion Week.
These are, of course, the fashion finger puppets, of which I hope to be a collector. They are adorable and quirky and actually match the likeness quite well.
Some of these puppets are sold individually, and others in sets like the ones created for the various Fashion Weeks. There is a New York group, London, Milan, and Paris group. Though they are a bit expensive, $120 for a set, they might be worth it when you have an insanely fashion knowledgeable child one day.
Karl Lagergeld, Boris Johnson, and Grace Coddington
New York Fashion Week, with Andre Leon Talley and Donna Karan
Paris Fashion Week, with Alber Elbaz and John Galianno
To see more of the fabulous creations, go to http://www.rubbishmagshop.com/.
Let me begin with saying that Dior, in the past, has not been one of my favorite design houses. I find it too costumey and just not my personal style. But John Galliano’s past two collections, the Fall/Winter 2010 and the Fall Couture 2010 contain some of the most beautiful clothing I have ever seen. They have been delicate and feminine, without being cliche.
When I interned at Elle Magazine last semester I was able to watch the runway shows online, and then within days I could touch the clothes that I admired so much. I loved it when Dior came in, I remembered the clothes from the collection and handled them with the utmost care, hoping that one day I could wear them myself.
So, obviously, I was very excited to see the Dior couture show, because this is Mr. Galliano’s real stage, where his creativity rules the second you receive the much envied invitation.
His inspiration for this show are tulips, a simple pretty flower, which he was able to turn into anything but simple, and exquisite instead of the requisite “pretty”. Both the ball gowns at the end of the show and cozy sweater dresses really captured the essence of the flower, and amplified it to couture status.
It was a truly beautiful collection, and I wish I could see the clothes when they come into Elle instead of being stuck in the suburbs.
I edited down the collection to my absolute favorites, you will see that there are still quite a lot. (And yes that is Karlie Kloss opening the show, again).
If you don’t already know, Marion Cottilard is one of my favorite people on the planet. And while I do not (regretfully) know her personally, she exudes a likability that is hard to ignore.
I first saw her in Big Fish, one of my favorite movies, and then later in A Good Year, but it wasn’t until I saw her tour de force and Oscar winning performance in La Vie en Rose did myself, and the world really take notice of her. That year she became the third person in history to win an Oscar for a foreign film, let alone the Best Actress award. She was also dressed, quite beautifully, by John Galliano, in a stunning white dress which resembled fish scales. The head designer of Dior loved her so much that she became the face of the Lady Dior campaign.
And for the July Issue of Vogue she is on the cover. I cannot tell you how happy I was to see her beautiful face on the cover and and not another celebrity. In my mind Marion Cottilard is an actress, a singer, a humanitarian, but not, as of yet, a celebrity. While I like Blake Lively, I really do not think that she should be on the cover of Vogue but there she was on the June issue.
It was risky putting Cottilard on the cover, she is not really a household name in America nor is she doing drastic publicity stunts to get her there. Instead she is charming, French, quirky, and of course an amazing actress.
The pictures from the cover shoot are incredible, the best I have seen in a very long time. To me, this is what they should look like. This is what a magazine is meant to do, transport you to a different country or time and make the clothing come alive.
The July Cover.